How To Attach Interlining To Fabric

Attaching interlining to fabric is an essential step in many sewing projects, especially when aiming to add structure, warmth, or a luxurious feel to garments, curtains, or other fabric-based crafts. Whether you’re working on a tailored jacket, roman shades, or drapery panels, understanding how to properly attach interlining ensures a neat, professional finish. Different methods are used depending on the fabric type, the nature of the interlining, and the intended use of the finished piece.

What is Interlining?

Interlining is a layer of fabric inserted between the main fabric (outer layer) and the lining. Unlike interfacing, which is often stiff and used for small areas like collars and cuffs, interlining is generally softer and covers larger surface areas. It can provide added insulation, body, and weight. Interlining materials include cotton flannel, polyester fleece, wool blend, or thermal materials designed for warmth and soundproofing.

Types of Interlining

Choosing the right type of interlining depends on the purpose of the fabric project. Some common types include:

• Sew-in Interlining: Attached by stitching it directly to the fabric layers.
• Fusible Interlining: Has an adhesive backing that melts with heat and bonds to fabric when ironed.
• Thermal Interlining: Used in curtains or winter clothing to provide insulation.
• Flannel Interlining: Adds softness and body, commonly used in garments and curtains.

Tools and Materials Needed

Before beginning the process, make sure to have the following tools and materials ready:

• Main fabric and lining
• Chosen interlining material
• Pins or clips
• Scissors or rotary cutter
• Sewing machine or hand-sewing tools
• Iron and pressing cloth (for fusible interlining)
• Measuring tape or ruler

Step-by-Step Guide to Attach Sew-In Interlining

Step 1: Pre-wash and Press

Always pre-wash your interlining and fabrics if they are washable. This helps avoid shrinkage later. Press all materials flat to ensure smooth layers for attachment.

Step 2: Cut Interlining

Cut your interlining to match the size and shape of your main fabric. For garments, it may help to cut a little smaller than the seam allowance to reduce bulk in seams. For curtains or upholstery, the interlining may match the exact size of the fabric panel.

Step 3: Layer the Fabrics

Lay the main fabric right side down on a flat surface. Place the interlining on top. If you’re also using a lining, layer that on top of the interlining. Align all edges and smooth out wrinkles.

Step 4: Pin or Baste

Use pins or sewing clips to secure the layers together. For better stability, consider hand-basting the interlining to the main fabric, especially for large pieces like drapes or jackets.

Step 5: Sew the Layers

Use a straight stitch near the edge of the interlining to attach it to the main fabric. This stitch will likely be hidden within seams later. Take care to stitch evenly and avoid puckering. Continue with assembling the rest of your sewing project as planned.

How to Attach Fusible Interlining

Step 1: Prepare the Fabric and Interlining

As with sew-in types, pre-wash and press all materials. Cut the fusible interlining slightly smaller than the fabric to avoid adhesive leaking onto your iron or ironing board.

Step 2: Set the Iron

Check the manufacturer’s instructions for heat settings. Most fusible interlinings require a medium heat with no steam. Set your iron accordingly and allow it to heat up fully.

Step 3: Position the Interlining

Place the adhesive (rough) side of the interlining against the wrong side of the fabric. Use a pressing cloth between the iron and the fabric to protect it from scorch marks or sticking.

Step 4: Press, Don’t Slide

Press the iron down firmly on one section at a time for about 10-15 seconds. Do not move the iron back and forth as it may shift the interlining. Lift and place to the next area until the entire surface is bonded.

Step 5: Let It Cool

Allow the bonded fabric to cool completely before handling. This ensures a strong bond. Continue sewing your project as planned, treating the bonded fabric and interlining as a single layer.

Best Practices and Tips

• Test First: Always test on a fabric scrap before applying interlining to your main piece. This helps check heat settings and bonding quality.
• Trim Seam Allowance: Trimming the interlining out of seam allowances helps reduce bulk, especially in curved areas like armholes or collars.
• Use a Walking Foot: A walking foot on your sewing machine can help manage thick layers more smoothly.
• Avoid Overheating: For fusible interlining, too much heat can melt the adhesive or cause it to bleed through the fabric.

Common Projects That Use Interlining

Many home and garment projects benefit from the use of interlining. Examples include:

• Roman Shades: Interlining provides a soft, full appearance and improves insulation.
• Drapes: Especially in blackout curtains, interlining adds body and reduces light penetration.
• Winter Coats: Quilted or wool interlining improves warmth and structure.
• Formalwear: Adds stability and shape to delicate fabrics like silk or satin.

Learning how to attach interlining to fabric is a valuable skill that improves the appearance, durability, and functionality of many textile projects. Whether you’re using fusible or sew-in types, proper preparation, layering, and attachment methods will result in cleaner lines and longer-lasting results. From apparel to interior decor, interlining plays an important role in enhancing the quality of finished items. With practice and attention to detail, you can confidently incorporate interlining into your sewing projects and elevate their overall performance.